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Out and Back in Peru
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July 1, 2004
July 2, 2004
July 3, 2004
July 4, 2004
Day 6-MP Trek July 6, 2004
Day 8-Machu Picchu, Aquas Calientes July 8, 2004
Day 9-Ollantaytambo July 9, 2004
Day 10- Cusco July 10, 2004
July 11-12, 2004
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Day 7, Wednesday-July 7, 2004 Inca Trail Day 3
We woke to the sound of porters waking campers several tents away. We remained cozy in our sleeping bags until we heard a rustle just outside our tent. Zip, zip, zip, John opened the tent door and two cheerful porters handed us cups of hot coffee. Unfortunately we did not have time to stop and enjoy the coffee, it was 6:00 am, time to pack, eat breakfast and prepare for the day. Another amazing breakfast trail breakfast including vegetable omelets fried bananas and toast.
Freddy had us out of camp at 7:22 am and climbing toward the first ruins. We marveled at the crystal clear sky and the warm summer like temps. The trail was steep and the stone steps rugged. Freddy told us that steps had been constructed for the safety of the tourists. I suspect the stairs were built to lessen the amount of erosion from water runoff and damage inflicted by the tourists.
Everyone appeared to be tired. Although I chewed coca early, I was having trouble catching my breath and was especially sluggish on the trail. We quickly reached the ruin of Runquaracy, an amazing circular structure with views of the Pacamayo Valley and surrounding mountains. This site is speculated to have been a post-house for goods transported along the trek between Cusco and Machu Picchu. It may have also served as a rest spot for weary travelers.
The climb to Runquaracy Pass was short (but steep). We climbed up steps, past a small lake and arrived on the pass (3,860 meters) to enjoy a well earned rest. Snow-capped mountains, highland grasses and the ever changing cloud configurations captivated us. We marveled at being in this amazing place on this wonderful winter day in Peru.
We returned to the trail and began trekking downhill. Leaving the highland grasses behind, we passed another lake and entered a world of bamboo, orchids and hummingbirds. The clouds were beginning to move up the mountain from the valley and some of the blue sky became obscured. The next ruin, Sayacmarca, appear in the distance. Sayacmarca (Town in a Steep Place) is perched on a cliff overlooking the Obamba Valley. The Inca Trail runs below the fortress and the only access to the fortress is via a single, narrow stone staircase.
Our group ascended the stairs. As Freddy instructed us to “Gather chicos,” we perched along a stone wall to listen to theories and stories of Inca lore. Using his walking stick as chalk and the ground as his chalkboard, Freddy drew while he spun his tales. He purposed two theories for the Sayacmarca fortress... 1) a resting place for Incas as they make their way to Machu Picchu or 2) a guard post to watch the activity on the trail.
The clouds began to thicken as we explored the ruins and the sun disappeared. We left Sayamarca and entered a rainforest filled with beautiful flowers. The path went from rocks and steps to an incredibly constructed causeway built on an elaborate stone wall. We passed (without stopping), the smaller ruins of Canchamarca, which sit on rounded terraces. We climbed through rock tunnels that the Incas had chiseled in the massive stone.
Somewhere along the trail, we came to a relatively flat area where many tents from many groups were set for lunch. We enjoyed a cauliflower based soup (best yet) with pasta and parmesan veggie tomato sauces, cucumbers and tomatoes, corn based lemonade, some type of meat (probably alpaca) and Peruvian potatoes. This massive meal was served on top of an appetizer of cheese bread and lemonade. No question that the Peruvian trekking companies have figured out that a full tummy results in a satisfied trekker! As usual, we stuffed our selves and returned to the trail. Ugh@ #%, so hard to hike on a full stomach!
The trail continued to the second pass and the third ruin, Phuyupatamarca (Cloud Level Town). This is the site of several baths fed from a spring higher up in the mountains. At this site and well other times during our four day hike, Freddy explained to us the reoccurring theme of three in the Incan culture. The use of three (windows, steps, baths etc.) signify the three levels of life: the condor, the puma and the snake. The condor represents God and the spirits of those in the afterworld. The puma represents life on earth and the snake represents the underworld. By this time we were really in a thick fog (at cloud level maybe)J.
From here it was pretty much downhill to Camp 3-Winaywayna (Forever Young) our lowest and warmest camp (2700m). This section of the trail boasted the dreaded 2,000 steps but honestly, we had been up and down so many steps that the 2,000 didn’t seem too difficult. Finally our camp came into view. We were tired and looking forward to resting.
Everyone who hikes the Inca Trail goes through Winaywayna. As a result, it is very commercial. A lodge is the centerpiece housing a dining hall, an on duty doctor, warm showers and cold soft drinks and beer for sale. Unfortunately I didn’t have correct change for the warm shower and the cashier took no mercy on my poor exhausted body so I was out of luck. Frustrated and tired, I ended up showering in the free showers on each end of the bathhouses. Free and cold...very cold water but worthwhile! The row of bath houses had unisex Asian squat toilets. The toilets flushed but to make the effort worthwhile, you gotta hit the right spot. Some hikers most have been unfamiliar with the art of squat toilets cause they left their business on one side or the other of the ground level porcelain.
Our final dinner was served in the Lodge. We sat inside at a long table with near a group of European who were smoking. This group had been dogging us on the trail, cigarettes in hand at every rest stop. We were so thankful that no one in our group smoked. It would have been very discouraging to have to put up with that for 4 days!
The final dinner is a very elaborate affair with our chef preparing many dishes decorated with vegetable animals, spiders etc. Lots of fun, laughter and very good food! The final dinner is the time we are able to express our gratitude to the porters and to the chef. Luckily for our group, Carlos is fluent in Spanish so he was able to convey our thanks appropriately! Three diet cokes later for me and the evening was over.
Lots of people hanging around the lodge chatting, playing cards and having a good time. We just wanted to go to bed. Diane had been feeling pretty bad during dinner, complaining of stomach cramps. We gave her one of our phenigrens before bedtime but about 12:30 am, we woke out of a restless sleep to the sound of her barfing. Poor Diane! We tossed and turned the rest of the night anticipating the 4:00 am wake up call.
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